“The meat is crispy, dark, and umami-rich on the outside, while the middle retains the fresh and flavorful bite of pure grass-fed beef,” in this restaurant close to the French border, Arzak says. “Next to the reception is the star of the show: a great glass case with enormous loins of beef under spotlights. There are cuts from cows and oxen, some young and bright, while others have the dark wisdom that can only be obtained by slow and steady dry-aging.”